La Bodeguita del Medio is located on the Empedrado street, between the San Ignacio and the Cuba streets. It is about 20 meters west to the Plaza de la Catedral.
La Bodeguita del Medio is one of
the tourist destinations in Old Havana. It owes its
popularity to the maxim of Ernest Hemingway:"Mi mojito en La
Bodeguita, mi daiquirí en La Floridita (My mojito in La
Bodeguita, my daiquiri in La Floridita)”. Meanwhile, the
place increased its fame by the visits of some international
names like Salvador Allende, Pablo Nerudo, Agustín Lara,
Brigitte Bardot, Nat King Cole, among others.
The story of the Bodeguita del
Medio began in 1942, when Angel Martínez bought the
small Bodega La Complaciente (Complacent Winery) on the
Empedrado street. In Spanish-speaking countries the name
bodega was used for a small store or market that sells
groceries and wine, mostly located at the corner of a
street. Even though, Angel Martínez changed the name of the
place to Casa Martínez, it continued to serve as a small
grocery store, where typical Cuban products were sold. But
from time to time, he served also dinner to the regulars. In
fact, people are going to there to drink his new cocktail
mojito that he was preparing with rum, mint, sugar, club
soda and lemon, and to spend good time with their friends.
Since that time, La Bodeguita del Medio introduces itself as
the birthplace of the popular Cuban cocktail mojito, but
this is not true.
In 1949, Angel Martínez employed
the cook Silvia Torres, nicknamed La China, and converted
the place into a fully-fledged bar-restaurant with convivial
ambiance. One year later, he changed the name of his
restaurant-bar to La Bodeguita del Medio.
The charismatic editor and
publisher Félix Ayón is attributed to be the father of the
new name, as he was describing the address of the restaurant
as “the little store in the middle of the street”, when he
was sending his friends to this place. This expression,
Bodeguita del Medio, was adopted by the regulars of the
place in a short time. Gradually, La Bodeguita del Medio
became a place where the writers, choreographers, musicians
or journalists met and hung out.
Several factors and persons played
a role in the jump of the place from a bodega for locals to
a restaurant-bar known internationally. The journalist
Leandro Garcia, a regular costumer, put his signature on one
of the walls and initiated a movement that still continues.
The Cuban poet Nicolás Guillén wrote a few verses about the
talks held by Martínez. The novelist Cabrera Infante sang
the praises of his mojitos. The studio of the sculptor Sepy
Dobronyi became a tourist attraction, as the sculptor gained
international fame after he sculpted a nude statue of Anita
Ekberg for Playboy Magazine. The restaurant-bar Bodeguita
Medio, just around the corner, was the preferred place for
these wealthy tourists, attracted by the bohemian charm of
the place. Some say that Martínez hired the Cuban journalist
Fernando Campoamor, also a friend of Hemingway, to put the
Bodeguita del Medio on map. Hence, a lengthy article about
Bodeguita appeared in the US press one year later.
The Bodeguita del Medio is still a
small restaurant-bar with few tables, where you can taste
Creole food, try the Cuban cocktails including the famous
mojito and listen to live music (even dance with Cuban
rhythms). The myth that has been built around Hemingway
draws people to this place. In fact, even though, Ernest
Hemingway liked the mojito of Bodeguita del Medio, he was
never a regular of the place.
A big, framed autograph,
attributed to the writer, is displayed on the wall with his
famous maxim about Bodeguita del Medio underneath it.
However, according to biographer Philip Greene, it is
unlikely that this autograph belongs to Hemingway, as
Hemingway usually signed his name without loops in the "g"
and "y", while the signature in the Bodeguita includes
loops.
The walls, particularly on the
upper floor, are covered with framed photos of the
personalities that visited the place and by hundreds of
signatures of famous customers, as well as unknown people.
It is also possible to put your signature on the wall, going
downstairs. The restaurant-bar has a saloon door style and
ceiling fans rather than freezing air conditioning.
The restaurant serves typically
Cuban food, such as boiled rice, black beans, pork shank,
manioc, pig shank roasted in its juice, pork rinds and
toasted fried plantains.
You may want to experience the
place, if you are on a Hemingway trail, but it takes long
time to find a free table due to the small size of the
popular restaurant. Some people would prefer to wait to be
able to have a photo inside of this historical restaurant or
to put their signatures on the wall. On the other hand, you
may also choose the sidewalk outside to sip the famous
mojito of the Bodeguita del Medio that is more expensive
than those in other bars of Havana.
In 1997, dozens of people were
injured, and an Italian tourist was killed by a bomb
explosion in the Empedrado street. Just moments before the
explosion, the barman in the Bodeguita del Medio had
accepted to have a photo taken with a tourist. Later, it was
understood that this person was a Salvadorian mercenary, so
that he was convicted of placing the bomb.
The restaurant has several
establishments outside of Cuba, including Mexico, the United
States, Ukraine, Czech Republic, Italy, Hungary, Macedonia,
Colombia, Costa Rica, Venezuela, Germany, United Kingdom,
Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Lebanon, and China. In Spain,
there are four Bodeguitas del Medio.